A295
Goats - Selection and Management of Youth Projects

sources of goats | the farm visit | selecting a dairy goat | selecting a market wether or meat goat | management of a new goat | nutritional guidelines | reproduction | fitting and showing

Introduction: There are several important decisions that must be made before selecting a goat for a 4-H project. Good planning will eliminate many later frustrations with the project.

Some of the basic things that should be considered include the following:

1. The goals of the member’s project (milk, meat, show, sale, pet, brush control, etc.).
2. The expenses associated with purchasing, feeding, and housing the goat.
3. The breed of the goat, and whether the goat is purebred or grade.
4. The availability of a breeding service in the local area.
5. The age, size, and sex of the animal.
6. The age and size of the main person handling the goats needs to match the eventual size of the goat.

Once these considerations have been discussed and are clear in the mind of the member, it is time to begin selecting the goat(s).

Sources of Goats: There are many sources of goats. These include parents, other 4-H members or FFA members, area breeders, veterinarians, nationally advertised breeders, county extension agents, and auction barns. Prices vary considerably, depending on the quality of the goat or its pedigree, and on the reputation of the breeder. However, it should be relatively easy to find a good registered goat kid that is within the price range of most budgets. Remember that goats are social animals and will not do well if they are kept by themselves.

Generally, auctions should be avoided, especially for beginners. There are usually reasons why auction animals are being culled. The best resources to find stock are other 4-H members or area breeders. These people have a strong interest in promoting goats and developing new interest in the local area. These people will also be a big help to the beginner by providing them with a readily available, local source of help and breeding services.

The Farm Visit: When visiting a farm to look at goats, take a look at the animal’s environment. Do all of the goats appear to be healthy, well-fed, and content? Are the pens and pastures reasonably clean and safe? If this is not the case, health, parasite, or behavioral problems may appear later. Examine the goats offered for sale. Look carefully for a healthy appearance, correct structure, and a good personality (friendly, playful and non-aggressive).

Ask to see the records of the goat. The owner should have health and vaccination records on the kid. There may also be records of the kid’s family that can be considered. These records could include show wins, milk production, classification scores, pictures, and reproductive history.

The Close Examination: Examine the head for discharge from the eyes, ears and nose. Be sure that the jaw is in proper alignment. Part the hair along the back and check for external parasites. Lift the tail and check for the consistency of the stool and for correct formation of the vulva. Examine the teats closely for extra teats or orifices (openings).

Observe the attitude of the goat. The goat should be animated and curious. Droopy or sullen goats often have health problems. All potential candidates should be reasonably calm about being handled and led, especially for beginning or young 4-H members.

Be sure that the goat has the proper markings and the correct structure of the ears and nose for the breed. Check tattoos and description against the registration papers for accuracy. Page K285 can be used to record any findings.

Overall, a good dairy goat will have sharp angles and be somewhat thin looking. She will have a long neck and body, and appear to slope uphill, with the withers higher than the hips. Avoid short, thick or rounded goats.

1. Get the proper type of goat. Meat goats will be rounder and more muscular than dairy goats. However, they should not be fat nor flabby. The goat should show a full, well rounded thigh; strong, muscular forelegs; and have noticeable muscling over the back.
2. Select a goat of the proper age. Many shows have a tooth rule, forbidding an animal that has lost the front pair of baby teeth from competing. This normally occurs between 11 and 13 months of age. Also be aware of weight restrictions and how much the goat should grow between purchase and show date.
3. Select a breed that will fit into the show classes. There are vast differences in maturation rates between the breeds. Certain breeds will begin to finish (fatten) at a much younger age and at a lighter weight than other breeds. Generally speaking, the Boer and dairy-Boer cross goat breeds will mature faster than the others.
4. Select an animal that is easy to work with. There are few things more aggravating to an exhibitor (or the judge) than not being able to handle the animal properly.

It is important to take the necessary time and carefully select the right goat for each individual. Good planning at this stage will help prevent much of the frustration and disappointment that can occur later if things do not work out with the goat.

Management of a New Goat: Prior to selecting an animal and during its stay on the property, there are several steps that should be taken to ensure the health and safety of the goat and any other goats (or other animals) that may already be on the premises. Following are some of the things that should be considered and be part of a management plan:

1. Isolation:
   1. The new arrival should be isolated from other goats for at least 2-3 weeks. Preferably, this period should be 6-8 weeks if facilities are available.
   2. During this period, observe the animal for potential disease conditions such as abscesses, swelling of joints, respiratory problems and illnesses, digestive upsets, other contagious conditions (soremouth, pinkeye, ringworm, etc.) and parasites.
   3. Observe the animal for stress-related conditions such as a runny nose, scours, going off feed, and having a poor attitude/depressed.
      
      * If problems arise, contact a local veterinarian or breeder for help.
      
       
2. Parasite control (see page B620 for additional information):
   1. Routinely treat for internal parasites (gastrointestinal worms, coccidia).
   2. Treat for external parasites (lice, mites, ticks).
      
       
3. Vaccinations (see pages B900 and B905 for additional information):
   1. If the vaccination history of the animal is unknown, give the goat the needed vaccines and boosters as if it had never been vaccinated.
   2. If there are specific problems or diseases in the new herd or area that are not commonly found where the goat came from, also vaccinate for these.
      
       
4. Training: When a goat is young, it is essential to get it used to new feeds, feeding and watering systems, facilities, routines, and people. This process is often called "conditioning" and should take place early in the goat’s life. Adult animals can also be conditioned, but it may be more difficult. Goats that are not conditioned properly can be fearful of new or strange events. The process of conditioning starts by gradually exposing the animal to a new event, until the event is no longer stressful to the animal. For example, if a tractor causes a "flight" response in a goat, begin by having someone else start the tractor some distance from the goat. It may also help to expose the goat to the tractor while it is not running. With the tractor running, encourage the goat to approach, and reward the goat only for non-fearful behavior. Repeat this process for short intervals over a series of days until the goat readily approaches the tractor without any fear.
   
    
5. Record Keeping: Start a new record sheet for all new animals. Include information about past vaccinations, de-wormings, and problems. The date of birth, markings, any tattoos, and pedigree should also be included. Pages K10 and K285 have areas for this information to be recorded.

1. Many goat kids can reach puberty at 40 to 50 pounds. To prevent unwanted early pregnancies, buck kids should be castrated or removed from the doe herd by 3 months of age.
   
   
   
2. Does should be at least 65% of their mature body weight at first breeding. This means that the standard sized doeling should be bred at 75-80 pounds (about 7-9 months of age). This helps maximize their reproductive potential, and it also prevents fat, unproductive dry yearlings.
   
    
3. Starting when the days are noticeably shorter, does will cycle every 19 to 21 days through the fall and winter. Some breeds, especially Nubians, may start cycling earlier in the summer and continue cycling until the following spring.
   
   
   
4. If there is not a buck in the area, onset of cycling may be delayed and strength of heats reduced.
   1. To help with this problem, consider making a buck rag by wiping an old towel all over a buck’s head, then hanging the rag in the barn with the does.
      
       
5. The signs of heat (when a doe is receptive to a buck) include the following:
   1. Tail-wagging.
   2. Calling or crying.
   3. Redness or swelling of the vulva.
   4. Abnormal levels of activity (walking and pacing).
   5. Decreased milk production.
   6. The first and last heat of the season may be silent.
      
   7. Repeat breeding may be due to several causes:
   8. Nutritionally, hormonally or physically incapable of supporting a pregnancy at the time of breeding.
   9. Bred at wrong time (especially common with artificial insemination).
   10. Infertility in the male.

Fitting and Showing: Fitting and showing are needed to adequately display an animal’s best qualities. There are often different specifications depending on the show’s rules, the judges’ preferences, and the goat itself.

1. Dairy animals are often clipped to allow better viewing of all areas of the goat. Many dairy goat owners will clip the entire goat with a number 10 (Oster) clipper blade about 1-2 weeks before the show. Then the day of the show, a number 40 clipper blade is used to trim the hair on the udder.
2. Generally, market animals are not clipped like a dairy goat. However, it is important to trim the long hair that can hide good features, as well as make the animal neat and clean for public viewing. Market wethers are often clipped according to the shows rules. Typically, they are slick shorn (no more than ¼" of hair) above the knees and hocks.
3. Hooves and horns should not be polished.
4. The goat should be bathed prior to the show, making sure that cashmere type goats have had enough time to dry out before the show.
5. Goats should be shown and controlled with a collar or halter. The goat should be handled so that it will walk freely in the ring and stand reasonably still for inspection. Goats should not have their front feet lifted off the ground while walking or standing.

1. Management is as much a learned art as it is a science. In all cases, the experienced eye of the manager is the most valuable tool available to ensure the healthy growth of the goat. Goats should be active, bright-eyed, inquisitive, shiny-coated and free of discharge from eyes, nose etc. Anything else indicates that something is wrong.
2. Work with your animal. A goat that has never been handled until show day will not behave or be able to be shown to advantage in their class.
3. Exercise is very important to building strong, firm muscling. There are a lot of ways to make toys available to the goat to help them keep themselves in shape, but they work much better if their owner is also involved.